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Thanks to world trade and the rapid development of traffic flows, today we can enjoy the fruits of plants that do not grow in our climatic conditions. At the same…

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Want to watch a blooming orchid all year long? We will share the secrets of caring for her. Elegant and sophisticated orchid - a unique plant, it can not be…

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Anthracnosis disease – prevention

Prevention is the best treatment (golden words). It must be firmly remembered that the causative agents of infection can already be on the seed that you hold in your hands, on any garden tools that almost no one ever disinfects, but does not wash, as well as in irrigation water (for example, good old black barrel painted in the garden), as well as on the wings or other parts of the body of insects.

As soon as humidity rises and the conditions mentioned above arise, microorganisms become activated immediately, the disease itself begins to progress. To build protection against anthracnose, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, always disinfect the seeds before sowing, even if they are collected by your own hands, remove plant debris from the garden and orchard, and it is advisable to dig the soil so that large clods do not collapse, then the infection hidden in the soil has every chance of freezing.
Garden tools, if you do not care that there may be an infection, then at least think about their safety because of the price (expensive, however): you just need to wash, dry and wrap with oiled paper, putting them dry and clean a place.

When copulating and budding, do not be lazy to take 10-15 g of ordinary alcohol with you, after each cut of an eye or an incision in a tree, wipe the knife blade with a cloth dipped in alcohol. So you will not spread the infection.

It is quite acceptable to carry out barrage treatments with fairly safe drugs. For example, in early spring, when the plants are still asleep, you can treat them with Topsin-M, pouring Zircon, Epin or Immunocytophyte growth stimulant (1-2 ml) into it, and the infection may not appear at all.

Signs of Anthracnose
Now that we have generally talked about anthracnose, let’s talk a little about the signs of its manifestation in the main cultures, including flower cultures, and we will name approximate options for combating this disease.

Cucumber Anthracnose
The leaf, stem, fruit of the plant suffers from it, and already in a young, seedling period. It is possible to notice the manifestation of anthracnose on a tiny seedling of a cucumber in the area of ​​its root neck, there will be visible indented spots that will turn into ulcers, and the seedlings will simply lie down. In adult plants, yellow or brown spots will appear at the edges of the leaves, first a couple of millimeters in size, and then they will quickly increase tens of times.

As a result, through holes are formed in place of the spots, and the fungus, losing interest in the leaves, switches to the stems, completing its dirty work with fruits, on which brown spots are formed, extending several millimeters in depth. If anthracnose is found in the basal region, 10-15 g of 1% Bordeaux liquid or 0.5% Abiga-Peak solution should be poured under the plants, but the soil should be well watered in advance. One treatment, as a rule, is not enough, you need to spend two or three of them. On leaves pour copper oxychloride or poliram (instructions on the package).

Anthracnose Tomatoes
Typically, adult tomatoes suffer from anthracnose: first, the upper leaves fade, as if from a lack of moisture, then spots with black sclerotia form on them. On the fruits, black and indented areas of about a centimeter are usually clearly visible, blackening and softening with time. Professionals advise using drugs such as Poliram, Tiovit Jet, Cumulus-DF to fight against anthracnosis, as well as using colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid or copper chloroxide.
Potato anthracnose
Anthracnose can affect both tubers and plant stems. On stems these are usually light brown spots, on tubers – a blurry-shaped spot of dark brown color. If you “blink” and lay such a tuber for storage, then it can spoil the entire batch, as it will develop and begin to spread further wet rot. It is difficult to overcome anthracnose on potatoes, it is much easier to grow it in one place every four years, to process tubers before planting with fungicides, to remove weeds, especially “classmates”, and after harvesting to remove all plant debris from the site. After that, deeply digging the soil without loosening, leave it for the winter.

Anthracnose squash
This disease in zucchini affects the entire aerial part and the plant dies. If yellow-brown spots are found on the leaf blades, treat the plants with a solution of colloidal sulfur. In zucchini, I myself checked and made sure of the effectiveness, I need to use 50 g of colloidal sulfur in a bucket of water, treating all parts of the plant affected by anthracnose with this solution. A neighbor in the country treated with Bordeaux liquid, took 1%, no more, said that it was also very effective.

Anthracnose watermelon and melon
Usually, the stems of watermelons and melons are most affected by anthracnose; they become excessively fragile. Affected fruits do not grow, do not accumulate sugars. On diseased fruits, dented spots that rot out are clearly visible.

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